Di and Will Keser revolutionised the Melbourne café scene with their two CBD locations before opening a café in Paris. (They now have a Hardware Société location in Barcelona, too!) We asked Di about her early days in Paris, and if she’d mind sharing some of her favourite Parisian spots – from restaurants and boutiques to bars and gardens – and she generously agreed! Here is her fabulous guide of places to go and things to eat and drink (and even a couple of phrases to say) next time you’re in the world’s most romantic city.
Market Lane: Why did you choose to open a location in Paris?
Hardware Société: We were spending a lot of time in Paris, with dear friends having just had a baby. We really fell in love with the city. We bought a little apartment and spent all the time we could, and we just knew we needed to open a café in Paris and stay.
Tell us about your very first trip to Paris.
Oh, it was so long ago…I’m talking decades. We stayed in a tiny hotel on Rue du Bac, where we had to climb over the bed to get to the toilet! But that’s the charm of Paris, even on a tiny budget it felt as magical then as it does today.
What do all your cafés have in common?
Serving Market Lane coffee, of course!
What makes the Paris café unique?
Our aspect. We have beautiful views of Paris rooftops at the rear, and we are a two-minute walk to Sacre Coeur. It’s a very special destination.
What’s a noticeable difference (if any) between a Melbourne café customer and a Parisian one?
Definitely the number of tourists. Coming off a huge summer, there are international tourists everywhere. Our clientele really appreciates the fact that we speak English, as we make everyone feel welcome (which isn’t always the case in a city like Paris).
What current dish at your Paris café do you recommend?
I am a fried brioche gal, through and through. Its current iteration in Paris is the Crème Catalan with caramel, nougatine and fresh orange. But if you are a savoury person, the breakfast blinis with house-cured salmon and KVR caviar is a must.
Favourite area to stay in and why?
The 2nd arrondissement has a special place in my heart. It’s close to everything, its quiet at night and on the weekends, and it has some really wonderful passages, restaurants and parks to appreciate.
Best restaurant/s to visit?
Racines for some stellar Italian; Canard and Champagne for the best duck in Paris and an incredible selection of champagne, and the petit; La Bourse et La Vie by Daniel Rose. These restaurants are all located in the 2nd and are outstanding.
Further afield, 52 Fabourg and Le Richer are great in the 10th. I must admit, I love to squeeze in breakfast at the Ritz when I can, but reservations are a must. For pastry, Philippe Conticini and Cédric Grolet are rock star pastry chefs and worth seeking out. An afternoon tea at Le Dali is a fabulous way to indulge in Cédric Grolet pastries, too.
Favourite place/s to enjoy art?
If I’m honest, I’m not a huge art gal, but I do love passages, parks and gardens, so I love to wander through Passage Panoramas, Palace Royale and even Musée de l'Orangerie – its location is breathtaking in the Tuileries.
A bar you recommend?
Oh, that’s easy – our friends have a bar in the Clignancourt neighborhood in the 18th called CO. It’s very Melbourne, quirky and fun, with an absolutely stellar cocktail list. Otherwise, the Hemingway Bar at the Ritz or Bar 228 at the Meurice are great for a fancy tipple.
An off-the-beaten-track place you love?
We love getting the dogs out to the Bois de Boulogne for a walk through the woods.
Best destination for a day trip out of Paris?
There are too many to narrow it down to one. For a chateau, Château de Fontainebleau is a beautiful place to visit in autumn and not as touristy as the Palace of Versailles. I love a trip to Rouen, its full of gothic churches and cobblestone streets. And if you have time, I highly recommended visiting the Sir John Monash Centre Australian National Memorial.
Unique shops or boutiques?
I adore Le Bon Marche in the 7th, their visual merchandising is enough to keep me wandering around all day. Their La Grande Épicerie de Paris is well worth immersing yourself in. The quality of their produce is second to none. Grab some bread, charcuterie and wine and sit in Square Boucicut just opposite for a great afternoon of people watching.
A useful phrase or two for visitors to know in French?
Bonjour, parlez-vous anglaise? (Hello, do you speak English?) and Puis-je avoir un flat white, s’il vous plaît? (Can I have a flat white, please?)
